which with machine tools is usually measured in decades, not months. If you use detergent oils, those things are held in suspension and float around in the oil until you change it. If you use non-detergent oils, those things sink to the bottom of the sump and stay there eternally, or until the oil is drained. Also, there is always a minute dust of fine metal particles from gears and bearings generated by the machine running. If your machines are not in a climate and humidity controlled environment 24/7/365, you HAVE moisture in the oil. Wiping out bearings? NO WAY."Ĭlean and moisture are two different things. "There is nothing to that if things are clean to begin with. Causes a tarry, coked up mess in the seal grooves that cakes up the seals and stops them from moving, wearing out the seals and causing failure. Hey, it's good for engines, why not? Because the oil injection system to lubricate the combustion seals causes it be burned, which it doesn't do very well. If JD made a lathe, you could probably safely run hygard in it, or maybe not.Ĭlassic example here is running modern synthetic oil in a Mazda with a Wankel engine. I note you all keep listing the various things inside a JD that compare to things inside a machine tool, but they may or may not be the same materials. That's the reason the manufaturers selcted a particualr oil manufacturer to produce the oil for their machines. Just not worth the risk to me to have the oil eat my plain spindle bearings or something else irrreplaceable.īut, I think the vote is in, we'll just stick with the AW68 hydraulic oil I've been using. Even a 30yr old tractor could have bits in the tranny that never existed in the 50s, much less when my big lathe was made in 1918. Also, there are differing alloys of bronze that may or may not be affected by the additives. " But, JD tractor transmissions have brass in em."īrass and bronze are not the same. The only thing that bugs me is the fumes given off vs a proper cutting oil like Mobilmet 766. I've been using ISO 46 and it worked fine for me with my HSS tooling. So unless anyone thinks otherwise, I believe it's what I'm going to use.īut how about Low Viscosity as a cutting fluid? It takes away heat quickly, has the EP additives, etc. Hygard is the same Viscosity (20w) but will all the gear train protective additives (being a transmission fluid). Currently been using ISO68 hydraulic oil (recommended to me on here when I got the mill several years back). That being said, I can't think of a better oil to use in the knee, column, and head of my K&T 2CH. The only difference is Hygard is approx 20w while Low Vis is around 10w. Both contain extreme pressure additives (As JD uses this in just about everything, even rear ends for the ring/pinion gears) and anti-foaming additives. Which got me thinking, my machines could all use an oil change, and I can get JD Hygard and Low Viscosity Hygard for cheap. Hi guys, I am currently working for my day job at the local John Deere dealership.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |